Entsu-ji

Entsu-ji temple was initially a villa erected by emperor Go-Mizunoo in the 17th century and named "Hataeda Palace." A Zen Buddhism enthusiast, the emperor had been searching for this ideal practice place for more than ten years. In the same ward, he also had the vast imperial estate Shugaku-in Villa constructed at the foot of the Mounts Higashiyama.

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Shugaku-in - The Imperial Villa in the North-east of Kyoto

In 1678, the site was converted in a temple by nun Enkoinbunei, who was a former attendant of the Emperor’s mother. The tenth head-priest of Myoshin-ji temple complex, associated to the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, was then appointed Entsu-ji’s first head-priest.

A remarkable imperial heritage

A narrow, paved alley starts at the entrance, lined with vegetation and a beautiful bell. Then, removing shoes is required before entering the main building. One can walk serenely in a corridor defined by nice sudare bamboo stores filtering the sunlight. The two gems of Entsu-ji are quickly reached :

• A kakemono of Emperor Reigen, Go-Mizunoo’s son; and,
• The dry garden made of forty rocks amidst moss beds.

The garden was designated a "National Place of Scenic Beauty" and Kyoto City is particularly vigilant in the protection of the wonderful view. Entsu-ji’s garden is indeed a marvelous example of a "borrowed landscape" or shakkei (借景), incorporating Mount Hiei in the background so as it actually looks like a part of the garden.

The view is particularly stunning in autumn 🍁, when the maple trees’ foliage reddens. The indoors are moreover fitted with heating mats for visitors to enjoy the view without getting cold. The garden, was designed by Emperor Go-Mizunoo himself, is composed of:

• Rocks and moss beds in the foreground, with Japanese maple trees on each side,
• A row of tall cedar trees and camellias, with more than fifty varieties; and,
• In the background, small trees, bamboos and Mount Hiei as the scenery's canvas.

The visit continues in another small green space, passes by a wonderful statue of Kannon, the deity of peace and mercy.

Noteworthy information: pictures are only allowed on the garden side. Taking photos with a camera 📷 or a smartphone 📱 is forbidden inside the main hall Hondo.

A small Kyoto Zen temple unspoiled by the crowd

Going to Entsu-ji is a journey by itself as the temple is located away from sightseeing circuits and harder to reach by public transportation. From the station, it nonetheless offers a nice and quiet half an hour walk in a typical residential area of Kyoto. On a fine weather day, the excursion is worth extending with a detour to Lake Takaragaike’s Park, surrounded by Mounts Matsugasaki that are illuminated during Kyoto’s bonfire festival in August.

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Gozan no Okuribi - 🔥 Daimonji’s Giant Bonfire Festival

While pictures are prohibited on the largest part of the visit and the buildings are of a modest size, it is precisely this minimalism and restrictions that help preserving Entsu-ji from mass tourism and keeping its beauty. It offers a spiritual halt before a wonderful shakkei dry garden. On a weekday, chances are high that visitors enjoy an absolute quietness, except for the monks’ recorded explanations that are played occasionally.