Shike-michi

In the early 1600s, the Tokugawa shogunate takes control of the Owari province (nowadays Aichi prefecture) and transfers the power from Kiyosu to Nagoya Castle 🏯, located only about 10 kilometers in the south-east from its initial location. A new town is built at the foot of the fortified grounds and a shopping district naturally blossoms along the Hori-kawa, whose riverbed is then arranged as a waterway to transport goods from the seaside and Atsuta-jingu grand shrine to the keep.

After a huge fire 🔥 in 1700, the merchants’ district undergoes heavy repair works to better protect its buildings against the spreading of fire:

• The main street is enlarged by 4 ken, that is to say about 7 meters; giving it its current name "shike-michi" that means "4-measures-wide street";
• Constructions are rebuilt perfectly parallel to the waterway; and,
• The kura warehouses, located on the eastern side of the avenue, are rebuilt on a stone base with walls coated in white plaster.

The refurbishment works came to completion after about 40 years. In 1986, Shike-michi is designated "Nagoya City’s townscape conservation district" for its authentic 18th century traditional Japanese architecture.

Nowadays, Shike-michi historical district extends from Sengen-jinja shrine in the south to the entrance of Endoji shopping arcade in the north. Sengen-jinja shrine is dedicated to princess Konohana no Sakuya, the kami deity overseeing protection against fire and goddess of Mount Fuji 🗻. The small and lovely Shinto grounds is also home to 7 trees (camphor trees and Japanese zelkova) that are about 300 years old.

The streets of Shike-michi reflect the quiet atmosphere of a residential neighborhood at a stone’s throw away from the big Nagoya JR station. The place is particularly enjoyable for is historical aspects and it is recommended to take the time to stroll around and admire the details of the various traditional houses. Some have small shinto shrines (Yanegami-sama) seating on their upper floors and it can be fun to try spotting the kami deities perched on the houses’ roofs.

Endoji, one of the oldest shotengai of Nagoya

At the end of Shike-michi, the covered shopping alley Endoji shotengai, also founded in the early 1600s in the temples district, prolongs the walk. With a bit of a retro atmosphere and nostalgia for the Showa Era (1926 – 1989), the street is lined with typical Japanese shops catering to the districts’ inhabitants every day needs. There are also cafes, restaurants and a few bars.

Several events are held throughout the year to revitalize the neighborhood: matsuri festivals are frequently staged in Endoji, such as the Tanabata 🎋 stars festival in July, and a more original one, the Festival de Paris (Paris’ festival) on a weekend in November.

On a side note, if your are looking for more lively districts in downtown Nagoya, with shops and restaurants welcoming of tourists, Osu and Kakuozan shopping streets are also good alternatives.

The historical tour of Nagoya’s city-center finishes at the crossroad on Egawa-sen street, whose 4 sides each display a statue of historical figures of Japan, including the 3 "Great Unifiers" of Japan:

• Oda Nobunaga (1534 - 1582);
• Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537 - 1598);
• Ieyasu Tokugawa (1543 – 1616); and,
• Mitsukuni Tokugawa (1628 - 1701, also known as Mito Komon).